THE BEST GUIDED CITY WALKS
Sophisticated strolling from Paris to San Francisco — no tourbook needed
By Emilie Harting, Forbes Traveler.com, updated 9:47 a.m. ET July 18, 2008

Exploring a major tourist city? Take a walking tour. Yes, I know about all the iPod tours. And I’ve stuck my fingers in the pages of a guidebook, while simultaneously following a map and asking questions at street corners. However, after taking many guided walks in London, Rome, Paris, Dublin, and New York, I’m convinced they provide a much richer experience.

Guides know the enchanting alleys and shortcuts. They are long-time residents of the cities and excellent, often native, English speakers. They are constantly researching, and they give an overview of the city so that walkers can more easily return to places they see along the way.

The tours themselves also provide entertainment. When rain came down heavily on a route through Dickens’ London, our gray-haired guide, fully costumed in a long dress and bonnet, shepherded us into an overhang, hopped up on a shelf, and acted out scenes from Dickens until the storm passed. Another guide had us standing high on tiptoes in front of T.S. Eliot’s widow’s house on Gloucester Square so we could peek in and see Eliot’s library. On a tour of Rome’s Forum and Coliseum, our guide had us pause at a spot where we enjoyed a panoramic view of the ancient city’s temples, palaces, courtyards, and government houses. He then pointed to a door on the lower level: “That led to the slaves’ underground walkway.”

On the French Revolution Walk in Paris we wound down a narrow street of small shops and tea rooms and stopped in front of Le Procope, the highly rated café where Voltaire, Robespierre, Marat, Ben Franklin and others often met to discuss liberty and the rights of man (though probably not with each other) just before the French Revolution. I sighed as we passed the building where Marat, the editor of L’Ami du Peuple, printed the people’s newspaper during the Revolution. We were even more excited when we went to the site where Dr. Guillotine—yes the very inventor of the grisly machine—had his shop. To add to that, we learned that the house where Marat was stabbed to death in the bathtub by Royalist intruder Charlotte Corday once stood on a nearby street.

Tommy Graham, director and founder of Historical Insights in Dublin, says his guides “are constantly striving to offer some ‘insights’ into Irish society through the medium of history.” In Dublin’s historic district south of the Liffey River, we strolled through Trinity College, where Jonathan Swift, W.B. Yeats, Oscar Wilde, and many other notables studied, then to nearby St. Stephens Green, where a chamber quartet was performing on the lawn, and on to the winding street of pubs in Temple Bar. Many famous literary pubs, among them Davy Byrne’s, are in and around Duke Street. In that area lines from James Joyce’s novel "Ulysses" are carved in small plaques on the sidewalk. When we arrived at the Georgian Merrion Square, with its rows of identical houses, each with four stories of dark red brick, black shutters, and gas lights, our guide pointed out the colorful statue of Oscar Wilde lounging on a rock on one corner. She also said that during the famine of the mid-1800s the elegant private park in the center would have been filled with tents and cauldrons of food.

While walking working class neighborhoods north of the Liffey River, our guide, a young James Joyce scholar, made sites from the author’s stories and novels come alive. I was thrilled to find the houses where his famous story “The Boarding House,” and his novel "Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man" were set.

On New York City tours we came to bustling Canal Street, and learned that it once had actually been a waterway separating downtown and uptown Manhattan. At Trinity Church’s cemetery, we saw the grave of statesman Alexander Hamilton, who lost his life in a duel with Aaron Burr, and passed by historic Fraunces Tavern, where George Washington said farewell to his troops after the Revolutionary War, and The White Horse, which had been a gathering spot for writers and reformers. After we crossed over the Brooklyn Bridge to the Promenade in Brooklyn Heights, we had a sweeping view of New York Harbor from Staten Island up to the Statue of Liberty and on to Manhattan while ferries and tugboats zigzagged back and forth.

Oriel Caine, a founder of Paris Walks, points out that “Guided walks are much different than the superficial visiting a traveler gets with iPods and guidebooks. You get warmth, humor, stories told with spontaneity, and you are in touch with a local person who can answer questions.”

“With a guide, you use all your senses,” says Seth Kamil, owner of Big Onion Walking Tours in New York. “Guidebooks go out of date even before they are published. We are constantly changing the walks, constantly finding historical material that works, and incorporating the past and present in this thriving, living city. Also, you can’t get lost. If a site has closed, the guides can talk about what that means to the neighborhood. The celebrities on iPod tours are excellent readers, but they may not know the area in depth.”

Another advantage is the helpful information travelers share with one another. David Tucker, owner of London Walks, says it goes beyond simple recommendations for plays, museums or restaurants to “make sure to get there a half hour earlier to avoid two hours in a queue.” Guides often recommend reasonably priced restaurants in the area, and others are apt to chime in with anecdotes about good eating places. At the end of a walk through Trastevere, once Rome’s ancient Jewish ghetto and now one of its trendiest neighborhoods, four of us took our guide’s suggestion and went to a little café near the Ponte Sisto Bridge and shared discoveries in Rome and other places.

Getting to the designated starting points is part of the fun. Walks usually start outside specific subway entrances, but sometimes at well-known museums, churches, or squares. Tourist maps are abundant in big cities, and many hotel clerks and concierges are eager to pencil in directions.

URL: http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/25727043/

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with Suzanne Pomeranz, licensed tour guide

NEED 10 PEOPLE MINIMUM FOR EACH TOUR.
RESERVATIONS REQUIRED – call 052-5838766 
OR email to suztours@gmail.com with PESACH 08 TOUR in Subject line


TUESDAY 22 APRIL – 1:30PM - Meet at Jaffa Gate
Walk along the Ramparts to Damascus Gate and see the remains of the Roman-period gate; explore Zedekiah's Cave; stroll through the Muslim Quarter and hear the story of the only Old City synagogue NOT destroyed in 1948 by the Jordanians; finish with a walk on the Cardo (Jewish Quarter).
Cost: 80 shekels per adult & 50 shekels for children (under 12) / seniors (over 60) / soldiers (in uniform) - includes all entrance fees.

WEDNESDAY 23 APRIL - 4:30PM - Meet at Jaffa Gate
Go up onto the Ramparts of the Old City Walls & walk almost to the Dung Gate. Stroll through the Cardo and the Jewish Quarter on our way to the Kotel (Western Wall) followed by a full tour of the Jerusalem Archaeological Park which includes the Southern Wall Excavations and the Davidson Center. 
We'll finish by 8PM, so, if you like, stay around there to enjoy a terrific Dixieland & Traditional Jazz Band called "Dr. Jazz" as they fill up the area with their wonderful and happy music!
Cost: 100 shekels per adult & 80 shekels for children (under 12) / seniors (over 60) / soldiers (in uniform) - includes all entrance fees.

FRIDAY 25 APRIL - 9:30AM – Meet at Ramat Rachel (end of #7 bus line)
From the archaeological area & the Yair Overlook to the founding of the Kibbutz, a reflective time in the Olive Tree Park and then to the Bell Outpost Memorial Site, we’ll discover the long life of the area of Kibbutz Ramat Rachel.
Cost: 50 shekels per adult & 30 shekels for children (under 12) / seniors (over 60) / soldiers (in uniform) - no entrance fees.


NEED 10 PEOPLE MINIMUM FOR EACH TOUR.
STROLLERS NOT APPROPRIATE FOR TUE & WED TOURS BUT GREAT FOR FRI TOUR AT RAMAT RACHEL!
RESERVATIONS REQUIRED – call 052-5838766 
OR email to suztours@gmail.com with PESACH 08 TOUR in Subject line

HAG PESACH SAMEACH v'KASHER TO ALL!

Sorry I haven't posted anything in waaaaaaay too long... hopefully I can redeem myself with this wonderful article about the writer's recent visit to Israel!

So - if you are thinking of coming to Israel but are frightened away by the headlines, read THIS article instead and book that tour, those tickets, whatever! And if you are already living here, please pass this on to others out there who might be considering but haven't yet made the right decision, which is to come to Israel - to this wonderful, beautiful, modern, ancient, fascinating, exciting, and SAFE country!

suzanne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2008/apr/05/temple-israels-life-beyond-the-headlines/
Israel's life beyond the headlines
By John Temple
Saturday, April 5, 2008

It had been almost 37 years since I first walked alone, carrying a backpack, down the dusty dirt road leading to a kibbutz high in the Galilee.

This time I drove a four-door Mazda sedan along a paved driveway to the same place, with Judith, my wife, and Abby, 17, my youngest child, at my side.

If in a dream I had been transported there, I'm not sure I would have recognized it. Somehow it felt, sadly, as if the country had left it behind.

The land of Israel that I found on a spring break visit this year was bursting with energy, in the midst of a boom only licked by the currents that are dragging down the U.S. economy.

Headlines from the region are usually of Gaza and rockets - of conflict. And, of course, that story deserves attention. But there are so many other stories , a few of which I would like to share with you today.

In this Israel, the spring air is rich with the sweet scent of the first blossoming fruit trees.

In this Israel, the streets of Jerusalem are mobbed with young and old, many in outlandish costumes, laughing and dancing, celebrating Purim, a holiday of revelry and abandon. The holiday's story of Jewish survival is as real today as it was more than 2,000 years ago.

In this Israel, yes, the apartments have "safe rooms," but they also have outdoor terraces abounding with flowers.

In this Israel, there is such a demand for labor that manual workers are likely to be Filipino or Thai, and travel is so easy that the country of Turkey is a weekend jaunt away.

The Israel I visited in 1971 was still a simple land, where the needs of the group seemed more important than individual aspirations. The country wasn't isolated, but it did seem distant from the more advanced life of Western Europe and America. Shipments of oranges and flowers were symbols of its connection to the developed world.

Today, although they still face great threats, the people of Israel are an economic force on a global stage. The airport destination boards list cities across the world. The nation's new, dramatic highways are jammed with cars, symbols of how individual Israelis are taking charge of their own destiny and the price that carries for their society - a widening gap between rich and poor that would have been unthinkable on the kibbutz where I worked long ago.

In this Israel, every individual seems to have a story, as does every place.

In the old city of Jerusalem, in the Jewish quarter, a father and his daughter carry on the work of generations of their family, crafting jewelry the Yemeni way, traditional silver and gold filigree work, delicate and rich. We talk for hours at a workbench in their shop, with the father telling me of watching his own grandfather doing the same work the old-fashioned way.

At a restaurant in the same city, two cooks - members of "Chefs for Peace" - prepare biblical foods using the native ingredients of the hilly region. The land comes alive in the dishes they serve.

At an Armenian ceramics gallery and workshop, the owner and his wife describe their attempt to start a new life in Canada to escape the violence of the intifada and how they decided to return home after four years in the new world.

In the Jerusalem market, entryways are guarded by armed police. But inside, the stalls overflow with strawberries, tomatoes, cucumbers and all manner of things.

The country feels a bit like the Wild West, with pistols visible on the hips of guards at every restaurant and soldiers carrying more powerful weapons. But, no, even after the massacre at the Yeshiva just weeks before, fear doesn't hang in the air.

On Easter Sunday, the Via Dolorosa is alive with pilgrims, many singing of faith as they move from one sacred site to the next.

The city - and nation - is a crazy mix of decay and modernity. Construction cranes are everywhere. So are tangled wires. Gleaming towers, bearing the names of companies that would be familiar around the world, are testament to the vibrancy of the country's tech explosion.

Yes, the shacklike stores of old still can be found with clothing hanging every which way. But they are being replaced with cut stone buildings. And yes, the decaying plaster of the three- and four-story apartments with walls of shutters is everywhere to be seen. But so are renovations of beautiful earlier structures and handsome new apartment buildings.

Tel Aviv hums to the tune of opportunity. But it, too, is a place of small stories.

Brides and grooms living out their fantasies in the evening light of the old city of Jaffa, where photographers capture glamorous scenes for memory books.

And the Iraqi community, where women still make by hand their traditional foods in a restaurant kitchen that's closer to a tent than any building we would know, an open and welcome environment where the customers seem to serve themselves.

In the hills of northern Galilee, in a special place where families built their dream houses scattered across the land, we sit in the garden of a vegetarian restaurant. When we say we're from Denver, we learn that the one family the owners know from our city are our friends.

At a nearby home, impossible you would think to find among a maze of narrow winding roads, a champion of Ethiopian Jewish women artists sells their ceramic work. There, with a grand view of the Mediterranean, she tells how tour buses arrive and spend hours with her learning the importance of the clay figures in passing tradition from generation to generation.

It is a land of contrasts. There, in the peace of the hills, she talks of the price of her son's service in the Army, and her daughter's, too. She tells of his learning Amharic and traveling to Ethiopia to work with children.

As we drive, we see a country rich with fields of grain, with beautiful valleys carved from the earth by pioneers who believed in the promise of a Jewish homeland.

As daily life goes on, the powerful of the world visit. The German chancellor speaks to Parliament. Vice President Cheney stays across the street from our hotel in Jerusalem. Secretary of State Condoleezza Rice drops in to prod the peace process.

But on the street you find little optimism for her efforts. Already, people are looking ahead and asking about Obama and comparing him with Clinton and McCain. The voices of Hezbollah and Hamas and Iran are louder. The rockets falling almost daily on an Israeli town, Sderot, are a reminder of the controlled conflict that people seem to have come to accept.

It is hard to imagine that those threatening the country's extinction could believe that the day might come when all that has been built, all that has been accomplished, could be destroyed.

But 37 years ago, walking on that dirt road to a community I would come to know and love, I never would have imagined the country that has emerged or what would happen to the kibbutz - that in effect, its dream wouldn't hold.

Across the land I met no one who felt the country had the leadership able to make the tough decisions to reach the peaceful future they all seemed to dream of. No David Ben Gurion, no Menachem Begin. Even no Ariel Sharon.

I never could have imagined what the country would feel like on a return visit with a daughter who is about my age when I first arrived there.

I returned home with great admiration for the energy and intensity of the people, for the feeling abroad in the land that, despite their differences, they are all in it together. The cafes are filled deep into the night. The bars have no closing time. There's a love of life, a passion for living, that's unforgettable.

As Israel approaches its 60th birthday in May, I am filled with the feeling that something special is still taking place in this sliver of a nation, something worth appreciating and supporting to enable the stories, still untold, to go on.


John Temple can be reached at editor@RockyMountainNews.com or by mail at 101 W. Colfax Ave., Suite 500, Denver, CO 80202.

© Rocky Mountain News

Back in July, as we all know, the Hezb'Allah killed and kidnapped Israeli soldiers, and Israel launched a defensive operation to strike back at Hezb'Allah in, mostly, Southern Lebanon.

From Nahariya to Haifa to Kiryat Shmona to Tiberias to Karmiel to Afula and even further south... with Hezb'Allah firing Katyshuah rockets into towns and villages all across northern Israel, about one million citizens have been displaced - many living in bomb shelters in their own communities while many others have temporarily moved south and are staying in either hotels or with families who have opened their homes for this purpose. Many local Israeli organizations gathered supplies to take up to the storehouses & distribution centers set up when stores closed and suppliers couldn't get trucks full of supplies into the area. I went with a terrific group of kids from an organization called "Young Israel" not only to take supplies (to the distribution center in Nahariya) but also to entertain with music, dancing, face painting, balloon sculptures and more in three bomb shelters and two nursing homes there. We went in a regular bus and drove up and back in the same day... it was an amazing experience, and I am grateful I had the opportunity to participate in such an effort to bring supplies and, hopefully, a little joy to the beseiged residents there.

When tours scheduled for August all cancelled, I decided to take the opportunity to visit my mother and family in the States, arriving in North Carolina on August 1st. I returned to Israel on September 1st and am available to guide you and yours with walking tours around Jerusalem or driving tours (in your rental car) around the country.

For anyone needing assistance in planning a tour or if you just want to chat about the situation and how it may or may not affect upcoming tourism to Israel, please feel free to contact me at suztours@gmail.com.

Hope to see you soon in beautiful, safe Israel!

suzanne

This report is posted on the Frommer's Travel Talk Internet Forum at: Israel Trip Report by "daisysmom"- I was guide for "daisysmom" & her husband when they were in Israel recently. The report is fantastic! Enjoy... suzanne
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I've been back for almost a week. I've answered the mail, done the laundry, paid the bills, overcome jetlag, but I still haven't sat down to write this report...because I really don't know where to begin. SO I'll just dive in.

Life in Israel is VIBRANT. Despite all the threats they are facing, people fill the streets, markets, cafes...indoor AND outdoor....going about their normal routines. Security is ever present. But it is largely unobtusive and very polite. We were a little nervous for about the first 30 minutes, but then we put our concerns largely out of our minds.

This was my third trip to Israel, my husband's second. (Our last visit was in 1997.) This occasion was a small family reunion with cousins who live in Jerusalem and with other cousins who were visiting the country as well.

We spent 3 nights in Tel Aviv and 5 nights in Jerusalem. Some of the days we toured on our own..on foot and by taxi. Some of the days we took walking tours. And some of the days I hired a driver/guide. We were too cowardly to drive by ourselves....a smart move...in my opinion.

HOTELS: In Tel Aviv we stayed at the Sheraton Tel Aviv Hotel and Towers. We were very pleased with the hotel, the service, the location, and the BREAKFAST!! I had reserved a room in the Towers so we had a wonderful view and we also had use of the Executive lounge on the 18th floor where we enjoyed a delicious Israeli buffet breakfast. Snacks and drinks were served all day and evening until about 10 PM in this lounge with free internet access.

The room was a bit on the small side but was clean and modern and had very nice amenities. I would stay at this hotel again without any hesitation.

In Jerusalem we stayed at the Eldan Hotel on King David Street...next door to the YMCA and across the street from the King David Hotel. You CANNOT BEAT THIS LOCATION and it was at a BARGAIN PRICE.

In contrast to the Sheraton where we stayed in Tel Aviv, the Eldan is no-frills...just the basics. But it was very clean, adequate, and the location was super. We walked to the Jaffa Gate in just 10 minutes. We walked several times to Ben Yehuda Street and even to the Mahane Yehuda.

The service at the Eldan was inconsistent...it was dependent on who was at the front desk that day. The staff seems to be overwhelmed with answering the telephones, and if you are standing there waiting to ask a question, you have to squeeze it in between phone calls.

Also, on several days, there were NO TOWELS available until late afternoon or early evening. The maid would collect the dirty towels in the morning. But would not replace them until late afternoon. If you came back to the hotel mid-day, sometimes you would find no towels in your room and the maid's cart didn't have any either.

The breakfast was adequate. If you like HOT foods at breakfast, it might be disappointing here. The hot foods were always cold and not very tasty. However, the COLD breakfast items were much better....lots of nice salads, cheeses, cereals, fruits, BREAD...always an interesting variety of breads.

If you like a hotel with lots of amenities and concierge services...this hotel is NOT for you. But if you want a great location and a great price...this is the place.

SIGHTSEEING: We really had only one whole day in Tel Aviv and we used the time to visit neighborhoods we had not yet seen.

My husband and I are good hikers so we covered a lot of territory. Starting out early, we WALKED from the Sheraton along the boardwalk all the way down to Old Jaffa and explored that area for awhile. After lunch we walked through Neve Tzedek, the Carmel Market, Sheinkin Street, and various avenues until we ended up back at the hotel late in the afternoon.

For Tuesday, I had hired a driver/guide to take us to Caesarea and Akko for the day. Having our own guide, he could answer our questions and explain details to us. We felt a bit safer having him drive and....especially in Akko...to lead the way for us.

In Akko, the guide took us to an Arab cafe for lunch. We let him order for us and I have no idea what we ate. I would describe it as different types of salads, dips, bread. It was an interesting cultural addition to our day of sightseeing...something I don't think we would have done on our own.

Later in the afternoon the guide took us to another Arab cafe to taste Turkish coffee...which we enjoyed very much. He also wanted us to taste some kind of special pastry, but he couldn't find a shop selling it.

For the next morning's drive to Jerusalem, I had hired a driver. After checking into the Eldan Hotel, we took a taxi to see the Chagall Windows at the Hadassah Hospital in Ein Kerem. Even if you've seen photos of these windows, when you are there in person, the colors are incredibly vivid...something that you won't see in any photos. If you plan on seeing the windows, you might want to call ahead to find out what hours they are open to visitors and when they will be having the explanations in English. There was a small entrance fee.

From Hadassah Hospital it was a short taxi ride to Yad Vashem. We had been there before, but I wanted to see the new museum and to take our time looking around at all the exhibits they have on the grounds.

Make sure you leave PLENTY of time to see this place. We were there for 4 hours and had to rush through at the end because they were closing.

Before our trip, I had emailed the public relations office at Yad Vashem to find out what days and times were least crowded. They advised me that afternoons were better than mornings. And they added that the museum was open late on Thursday nights and that the crowds were also smaller then.

As I made my way through the various rooms, it seemed obvious to me that one of the major efforts of this new museum was to PERSONALIZE the events of the Holocaust. Rather than just presenting facts, maps, objects, statistics, most of the exhibits told the story of an individual or a family that had personally endured these unspeakable events.

It is terrible that a place like Yad Vashem has to exist. But as you leave the last haunting exhibit of this museum, you emerge onto an outdoor balcony to see a vast panorama of the City of Jerusalem being re-built by the State of Israel....looking to the future...while remembering the past.

Thursday morning at 7:45 AM, we were at the Wall...the Kotel. I had booked a tour of the Western Wall Tunnel through David Tours in the Old City. Even though I booked this tour 2 months in advance, the only times available during my visit were at 8 AM or at 9 PM. So be forewarned. Plan in advance.

I was very pleased with the services of David Tours. You can email them at dtours@zahav.net.il. If they don't answer, be patient. They have been having problems with their computer. Other than that, they were always very prompt and efficient. Their website is: http://www.davidstours.com.

The Tunnel was fascinating. It took about an hour and a half to go through it. That was followed by an hour tour of the Jewish Quarter.

Being Thursday morning, we also witnessed many Bar Mitzvahs at the Kotel. It is quite a frenzied scene as the men gather around tables to pray and the women stand on chairs to watch over the barricades.

We had lunch at the Quarter Cafe and then spent time wandering through the Jewish Quarter and the Armenian Quarter on our own. On our previous trip,we'd had an extensive tour of the Christian Quarter, the Via Dolorosa, and the Church of the Holy Sephulcre. So since our time was limited, we did not get to make another visit to the Christian Quarter on this trip.

The rest of the day was spent visiting relatives.

My cousin Sara has lived in Jerusalem for 25 years. She served as our tour guide for much of our visit. On Friday morning she led us through the Mahane Yehuda, and she and thousands of others did their last minute shopping for Shabbat.

Before we ate our way through the market, Sara led us on a tour of the lovely neighborhood of Nachlaot. While she was explaining about the famous rabbis who had once lived in that area, an elderly woman emerged from one of the houses. From her window, she had been listening to Sara's explanations and decided to come outside to enhance the stories...since she had known these families personally.

While wandering through these tiny streets of Nachlaot we found the workshop...the size of a walk-in closet...of Chaim Peretz, a renowned stained-glass artist. He showed us some of the things he was working on, including sketches for windows of a new synagogue. He had a few items for sale...various types of Judaica...mostly candlesticks and Chanukiah. My cousins and I bought several items and it was a tough to decide what to take home and what had to be left on the shelf.

Going through the Jewish Market was a lot of fun. My cousin Bobby bought something to eat from just about every stand. I succumbed to fresh baked RUGALAH...still warm from the oven...chocolate, blueberry, and cheese. WARNING: Bet you can't eat JUST ONE.

I bought a whole Kilo...about 2 1/2 lbs...for 20 shekels...I think about $4.50. It was hard not to devour them all at once.

For lunch that day we ate at Village Green...a dairy restaurant on Jaffa Road. The 5 of us shared various vegetable lasagnes, quiches, and salads. EVERYTHING was wonderful.

After lunch we sent the husbands home in a taxi and the ladies explored the jewelry stores on Ben Yehuda Street before they closed for Shabbat. (We also were the first ones there when they re-opened AFTER Shabbat....but that's another part of the report.)

On one afternoon...I forget which one... we decided to do a walk along the Ramparts of the Old City on our own. I would not recommend bothering with this.

Most of what you see is a lot of dilapidated roofs and junk strewn backwards.

Maybe a knowledgeable tour guide can make it seem more interesting. I don't know. But I thought it was pretty much of a bore and wasted time.

FRIDAY NIGHT AT THE KOTEL: This is an interesting experience in many ways.

Four of us took a taxi from our hotel at 6 PM to the Dung Gate entrance to the Jewish Quarter. Shabbat was scheduled to begin officially at about 7 PM.

In another discussion on [the Frommer's] message board, Suzanne Pomeranz had kindly given me instructions to tell the taxi driver how to get us as close to the entrance as possible since my cousins have difficulty walking due to various foot/leg problems.

Before we even got into the taxi, I told the driver where we wanted to go and negotiated the rate. (I didn't even bother to ask him to use the meter. By this time I was familiar with the dozens of excuses he was going to recite. But taxis in Israel will be a topic for another discussion later on.)

After we agreed on a price, the four of us got into the taxi and there didn't seem to be any problem.

As we approaced the traffic light at the intersection right before the Jaffa Gate, the driver told us that the Old City was closed to vehicular traffic because of Shabbat but as an alternative, he had a brother with a wonderful store that he could take us to.

Nice try.

It was still an hour before Shabbat and I knew that people were still driving into the Old City. I could see the traffic going through the gate.

So, I whipped out Suzanne's instructions that I had copied from the computer and read the driver the directions. Since it must have appeared to him that I knew my way around somewhat, he didn't argue much more and drove us to where we wanted to go, although he was still trying to get us to promise to visit his brother's store.

From my last visit in 1997, I remember that on Erev Shabbat the plaza in front of the Kotel was jammed with people, including many tour groups. Sadly, this was not the case now. Although there were many worshippers in the men's section and the women's section, the wide plaza had many fewer observers. It was largely empty despite heavy security.

Later we found another taxi outside the Dung Gate exit and went to dinner at the YMCA. Since so many restaurants close on Friday night for Shabbat, it's good to have a reservation for dinner somewhere. The YMCA was right next to our hotel and it was a very comfortable and convenient place to dine.

So many things in Jerusalem are closed on Shabbat. But I had hired another driver/guide to take us sightseeing outside the city for the day.

First stop was the Soreq Cave. Now, I had warned the guide that my cousins have difficulty walking. I had told him I didn't think we could manage the Soreq Cave because of the long and steep path from the parking lot to the entrance to the cave.

However, the guide surprised us by calling ahead to the Cave administrator and requesting permission to use their service road so that we could drive right up to their front door. We were delighted and really enjoyed our visit to this unusual site.

You cannot tour the cave on your own. You have to join one of their groups led by a guide. It would also be a good idea to call ahead and find out when the tour will be led in English. Since we had our own guide with us, he provided translations. Once the tour began, it lasted about 30 minutes.

The next stop was the Ayalon Institute in the city of Rehovot. I had read about this place on the internet and I asked the guide to arrange for us to see it.

This was formerly a kibbutz and during the 1940's, an underground bullet factory was established here to supply ammunition for the coming war of Independence. The Haganah built it right under the noses of the British Army.

On this tour, they actually take you underground to see the factory. So if you are not good with climbing steep steps, you might have a problem here.

Once again, you need to call ahead for the tour schedule and find out when it will be given in English. The tour takes about 90 minutes. Their phone number is 08/940-6552.

On our way back to Jerusalem we stopped at the village of Ein Kerem where we visited the Church of St. John the Baptist. The next stop was Mt. Scopus for a beautiful view of the desert and the Dead Sea far in the distance. Our final stop of the day was the Mount of Olives.

It was a very full day but very exciting.

Sunday morning my cousin gave us a tour of Mea Shearim. What a different world!! If you tour this area, make sure you dress appropriately.

Sunday afternoon was a particular delight because I had scheduled a walking tour of the Hinnom Valley area with Suzanne Pomeranz.

Suzanne is an amazing guide. She really knows how to communicate the rich history of Jerusalem so that you can picture those events clearly in your mind. Even though our hotel was close to this area, I had no idea that these beautiful and interesting places existed right down the street.

My favorites were Yemin Moshe and Mishkenot Shaanim. (I don't know if I spelled that correctly but after Suzanne's tour I KNOW I can SAY it so it just rolls off my tongue.)

Our final day in Jerusalem was spent at the Israel Museum.

The next parts of my trip report will deal with the REALLY interesting and important details: eating, shopping, and taking taxis.

THE TAXI GAME:

You CAN'T win. You just don't want to lose too badly.

Everyone warned us to insist that the driver use the meter. Good Luck.

This is what happened in our very first taxi ride on our very first day in Jerusalem:

We were headed to see the Chagall Windows at Hadassah Hospital Ein Kerem from our hotel near the YMCA. I had asked the desk clerk to write down for me in HEBREW where we wanted to go and I asked her how much the taxi fare might be. She said "DON'T PAY MORE THAN 40 SHEKELS. It will be somewhere between 30 and 40 shekels."

So we crossed the street to the taxi line in front of the King David Hotel. As we were crossing the street I motioned to the first driver in line to wait for us. As we crossed I felt someone grab my arm and pull me away in a different direction. It was the driver who was SECOND in line. I tried to explain to him that I had already signalled the other driver. Then the 2 drivers exchanged some words I'm glad I didn't understand, and the second driver said it was "okay" for us to get into his taxi.

So I didn't question it and I got into the cab, showed him the paper, told him where we wanted to go in English, and asked him how much just to drive us to Hadassah Hospital...nothing else. He started driving and told me that he would take us to Hadassah Hospital, wait for us to see the windows, and then drive us to Yad Vashem...a short distance away...for 150 SHEKELS!!

I said...NO THANK YOU. PLEASE PUT ON THE METER. (I was still very naive then.) We drove a couple of blocks and I noticed that he still hadn't put on the meter and we still hadn't agreed on a price. So I politely demanded an answer and he said he would take us to the hospital for 50 shekels....an offer which I refused.

In the middle of the street he stopped the cab and told us to get out.

Welcome to Jerusalem.

After that....I didn't even get into the cab until we had an agreed price. After several tries, I gave up asking for the meter entirely. I knew it was useless. Besides...as I said...you can't win. Using the meter only works if you know where you are going and how to get there. Otherwise, the driver can agree to use the meter but drive around in circles and you'd never know the difference. Also...there are so many different settings he could put on the meter...you wouldn't know what he is doing.

So...just my opinion....find out from the hotel how much you should be paying for a taxi ride. Don't get into the taxi until you have agreed on the fare. And then be happy if the price the driver gives you is within 10 shekels of what you wanted to pay. (10 shekels is only about $2.50...a small price to pay for a peaceful ride.)

I considered renting a car. I am a very experienced driver. But as I observed the traffic in Jerusalem, I couldn't figure out their system for changing lanes. I decided there wasn't any.

One of our tour guides told me a joke: A Jerusalem rabbi and a Jerusalem taxi driver were waiting to get into heaven. The taxi driver got in first and the rabbi was on the waiting list.

The rabbi asked the cab driver how this could happen. The taxi driver replied: "When you do YOUR work, people fall asleep. When I do MY work, people pray."

THE FOOD: I believe in what I like to call "food tourism". So if details about food and restaurants are boring to you, skip this part. However, if you get vicarious thrills from the eating adventures of others(and it doesn't involve any calories for you) you might find this part interesting. I know my friends at home will hang on every bite.

I tried to take careful notes. But it's hard to eat and write at the same time. And I guess it can look a bit dorky to sit at the table in a nice restaurant with a notebook. So...I'm doing the best I can to describe everything as accurately as possible.

As I've said before, I hate to waste money AND CALORIES on a bad meal. In selecting restaurants I consulted several sources, including restaurant reviews from the Jerusalem Post and Haaretz; travel magazines; food magazines; online message boards; and food/restaurant websites.

HOW I MISS THOSE ISRAELI BREAKFASTS!!!

And if you have never been to Israel...you will be pleasantly surprised by the EXCEPTIONAL quality of the fruits, vegetables, and cheeses...all things that I love.

LUNCHES: On our first day in Tel Aviv we had lunch at MANTA RAY...right on the beach...just north of Old Jaffa. It was the perfect way to begin a vacation...dining on the outside terrace with a fabulous view of the Mediterranean.

The food was excellent and the service was very friendly and pofessional...if a bit slow. But we didn't mind at all. The setting was so DELIGHTFUL, we were very happy just sitting there. In fact, the service was so slow that day, the waitress gave us 2 FREE desserts we hadn't even asked for. It was a Kiwi fruit creme brulee arranged on the plate in the shape of a gorgeous flower. i wish I had a picture.

Manta Ray is kind of pricey for lunch...and the menu items are a bit heavier like for dinner...but we enjoyed sitting there so much. I recommend starting with the mezze sampler. In fact, you could probably make a whole meal out of it.

I got the impression that most people had made a reservation...even for lunch...especially for a seat on the terrace. So if you are thinking of dining here, make a reservation if you can.

Another favorite lunch was on the terrace at the KING DAVID HOTEL in Jerusalem. It was a splurge but a tuna fish sandwich NEVER tasted SO GOOD...served on WARMED pita bread with a beautiful side salad. The food, the service, the view, the weather, the HISTORY....a very memorable lunch.

The VILLAGE GREEN on Jaffa Road in Jerusalem is a great place for a dairy lunch. The 5 of us shared various vegetable lasagnes, quiches, and salads. If we'd had more time, we would have ordered more things to taste because everything looked so good. But we wanted to get to the jewelry stores on Ben Yehuda Street before they closed at 2 PM for Shabbat. Some things DO take precedence over food.

DINNERS: TEL AVIV: I REALLY like great restaurants for dinner..especially on vacation. I like to think that I DINE rather than just EAT. And I like to taste foods and recipes from the region I am visiting.

I had planned our dinners in Tel Aviv almost with military precision...researching restaurant reviews for months and discussing my choices by email with the hotel concierge who made my reservations. It wasn't easy to narrow down the list.

And with most dinners, we ordered a bottle of Israeli wine. We can't usually drink a whole bottle of wine with dinner because we don't drink THAT much and we have a STRICT rule about drinking and driving. But since we weren't doing any driving and because we wanted to taste the offerings of some "boutique" Israeli wineries, we used this opportunity to indulge.

Staying at the Sheraton Tel Aviv, the evening of our arrival we had dinner at the OLIVE LEAF Restaurant which is often rated as one of the best kosher restaurants in Israel. Service was very elegant and the food was excellent...except for the frozen loaf of bread.

For appetizers we had the fish soup and ceviche. Main courses were Cobina and Grouper. Dessert was a simple fresh fruit sorbet for me. And my husband had some sort of chocolate concoction that was very good...even if it was "pareve". Not only was the meal extremely pleasant, but it was nice not having to eat from a seat-back tray table for the first time in DAYS.

We also ordered a bottle of Yatir Sauvignon Blanc 2004...a very pleasant Israeli wine.

The waitress had brought us a steaming loaf of bread. But while it was hot on the outside, two bites told us the inside was frozen solid....their big secret is OUT!!!! Microwaved bread at the Olive Leaf!!!!

The only thing I really would have changed about this restaurant was the lighting...it was much too BRIGHT. I like more subtle lighting for dinner.

Our FAVORITE restaurant of the trip was RAPHAEL'S...in Tel Aviv...a couple of blocks south of the Sheraton in the Dan Tel Aviv Hotel. We ate there TWO NIGHT IN A ROW. The candlelit dining room is all rich dark woods and the service was highly professional. The food was SUPERB. The menu is Mediterranean-Sephardic in keeping with the background of the chef. Our dinner was OUTSTANDING.

For starters we had a buffalo mozzarella and melon salad and a very unusual zucchini soup. My lamb osso buco was the best I've ever tasted and my husband had a very excellent yellowtail fish.

When we were first seated they brought us a basket of interesting breads filled with walnuts and raisins. But as they served the appetizers, they presented us with a loaf of fresh grilled focaccia (no microwave here) dripping with olive oil, garlic, and herbs. THAT could have been my whole dinner.

Dessert was a very special apricot/chocolate tart. We also enjoyed a bottle of Yarden Syrah 2002.

If you plan on eating at Raphael's, make a reservation a few days in advance.

GUESS WHO CAME TO DINNER: For our 3rd night in Tel Aviv, I had reservations at CARMELLA. I had heard so many nice things about this restaurant. I really wanted to try it.

However, that evening...as a goodwill gesture to the people of Israel...the French Embassy had arranged for an elaborate fireworks display on the beach in Tel Aviv. Thousands of people were descending on the beach from all over the country. Traffic was backed up all the way to Jerusalem. Streets were closed. There were NO taxis. We walked several blocks in the opposite direction of the beach, but still could not find any taxis.

I was beginning to panic. I had visions of starving to death in a Jewish country. Since I didn't want to cause Israel any adverse publicity...heaven knows it's had more than enough of that...we gave up trying to get to Carmella and walked back towards RAPHAEL'S...knowing it wouldn't be difficult to enjoy another dinner there; hoping they would have a table for us...and dreaming of another loaf of that focaccia!

THANKFULLY, RAPHAEL'S was just about empty...since everyone else in Israel was on the beach waiting for the fireworks. As we finished giving our order to the waitress, a BIG GUY (but very cute) wearing an army jacket and carrying a walkie-talkie and who-knows-what under his army jacket, marched into the restaurant and started looking around very carefully and purposefully at everyone and every table. He didn't seem to be there for dinner.

I was wondering what someone like that was doing in a restaurant like this. I was soon to find out as the next person to stroll into the dining room was Benjamin Netanyahu.

WOW....what a story to tell my MOTHER! I would have called her right there and then but I still hadn't figured out how to dial my cellphone in Israel. I'm not a techno-wizard.

Bibi and his family were seated at the table right behind ME. I considered turning around to tell him that I've seen him so many times on the Larry King Show and that he looks thinner in person.

However, I decided this probably wasn't a good idea...I wasn't sure how the BIG GUY would react. In fact, when the air-conditioning in the restaurant got really, really cold, I wasn't sure if it was safe for me to turn around to get my sweater from the back of my chair. So I just sat there with goose bumps.

The BIG GUY was standing there...directly behind my right shoulder. The look in his eyes told me that he took his job very SERIOUSLY. I decided the best course of action was NO SUDDEN MOVES.

When the wiatress brought my main course to the table, I breathed a sigh of relief. I examined the items on the plate and concluded that it wouldn't be necessary for me to reach for my knife. I wasn't taking ANY chances.

As for the food that night.....again, another GREAT meal. My husband had an appetizer of asparagus and corn that was MUCH better than it sounds. I had a gazpacho of cherry tomatoes and white peaches. My husband ordered the osso buco I had enjoyed the night before. And I had the grilled fish special of the day. The sommelier recommended a Chateau Golan Sauvignon Blanc "Royal Reserve" 2004 which wasn't on the menu. I'm glad we took his advice.

Dessert was a variety of tarts made with fruit and cream cheese...two nourishing food groups.

After we had walked out of the dining room, I remembered I had left my sweater on the back of the chair. I wasn't sure if it was a good idea to approach the table agin...I didn't want to risk getting shot by the BIG GUY in order to retrieve my sweater. However, it was from BLOOMINGDALE'S...so worth the risk.

DINNERS: JERUSALEM: Since we were going to be spending a lot of time with family here, I didn't make any advance reservations because I wasn't sure of our schedule and the preferences of my cousins.

On the night we arrived in Jerusalem, I didn't have any reservation for dinner. I didn't think it would be a problem because it was a Wednesday. However, every place on my list that I called was booked up. But it turned out to be very LUCKY because further down on my list was CAVALIER. If the other places hadn't been booked up already, we would have never tried this little gem.

CAVALIER is a little tiny place...only 9 tables...on a small alleyway. It was the kind of intimate restaurant you might expect to find in Paris...and, indeed, the chef had trained in France. A casual but elegant place...lots of dark woods, candlelight, and FRESH FLOWERS all over. As soon as we were seated, we knew this was going to be a very special dinner.

Starters were steamed asparagus with tomatoes in a dressing of lemon juice and olive oil. I had a salad of arugula, pears, cherry tomatoes, and pecorino cheese. For my main course, I ordered a lamb dish cooked with couscous in a curry and sweet sauce...absolutely divine. My husband had the shrimp special which was very good...but I liked mine better.

Once again, the bread was so good it was hard not to fill up on it. We also enjoyed a bottle of Yarden Galilee Merlot 2001.

For dessert we shared a chocolate volcano and a pear tart.

All the presentations were VERY artistic. The other tables had all been reserved in advance. We were so lucky that this one table was available for us that night at the last minute.

The next night was dinner with the family. DON'T ASK!

For Shabbat, I had reserved a table at the 3 ARCHES RESTAURANT in the YMCA. Four of us enjoyed a very relaxing and comfortable dinner there in their charming dining room. I had the Moroccan Harira soup. I have no idea what it really was...but it was REALLY excellent.

Unfortunately, all of our main courses..chicken and meat...were overcooked and dried out. And the side dishes were cold. What a shame...because the place is SO pretty and the service was FRIENDLY and very nice. We really enjoyed sitting there in that lovely dining room and warm atmosphere.

But the dessert was exceptional. We had their "Hot Sweet Pie with Chocolate Fudge."

Even though our main courses were somewhat of a disappointment, we returned to the restaurant later in the week for snacks and drinks on the beautiful terrace there.

FINALLY...my last restaurant...for those of you who might be bored...

After Shabbat was over on Saturday evening, we didn't have any reservations. Our plan was to go with cousins to Ben Yehuda Street and find a cafe after checking out the jewelry stores we had missed on Friday afternoon. But there didn't seem to be a cafe that really appealed to us. One of the shopkeepers recommended the DOLPHIN YAM Restaurant and gave us directions.

It was VERY hard to find this restaurant and they really don't have a very good sign outside. I don't even recall if there was an English sign at all. But the storekeeper had told us to look for a fish on the wall. So that's how we found it.

When we got to the restaurant, there was only one empty table with a "reserved" sign on it...at least I think that's what it said. But the people never showed up, so the owner gave the table to us. It was another stroke of good luck and good timing.

We shared assorted dips....8 of them....with warm flat bread toasted with garlic. For main courses, I had a fish called meagre. I'd never heard of it. But it was one of the BEST fish dishes I've ever eaten...grilled but juicy and tasty on the inside. My cousin ordered the mixed seafood that was served Italian style..like a zuppa di pesce. That and the grilled St. Peter's fish were SUPER as well.

The desserts were NOT disappointing. I had my usual fruit tart. My cousins had a creme brulee and a "triple chocolate" something-or-other. It was like hot chocolate pudding with vanilla ice cream...a well-balanced item...also with fudge sauce.

Everyone at this restaurant was VERY friendly and the service was great despite all of our special requests...like ICE for the water. We sat there until closing. We just didn't want to leave.

For those of you who might be wondering why I always order a fruit tart and let everyone else order chocolate...it's because that way I get to taste at least 2 different things...because I always try the chocolate dessert too. And everyone knows that fruit is healthy. So I don't have to feel guilty.

Our other dinners in Jerusalem were spent with family. We were very fortunate to be able to share time with them in such a special city.

A very fascinating way to spend the day... especially if you are looking for something to do in Jerusalem on Shabbat..and if you are looking to do something AIR-CONDITIONED....go to the Israel Museum. I was especially intrigued by their Archeology section and their Judaica section. And of course, that's where they have the Dead Sea Scrolls.

A GREAT OVERALL resource for finding things to see and do in Israel is this website:

http://www.ilmuseums.com/

In planning my own trip...I just went down the list of each place listed and decided if it was something I might want to visit.

But, again, verify all of the information such as times and prices.


OKAY, now. The most serious part of my report, the SHOPPING.

I am pleased to announce that my cousins and I made a valiant effort to support the Israeli economy. My cousin more so than me. She had to buy another suitcase and a backpack to get it all home.

I am not really a shopper. (Don't tell my husband this.) I was interested in basically 2 things...jewelry and some kind of nice tchochke I could put on the wall unit in the living room.

As for the jewelry...I was not thinking of "fine jewelry"...like gold and diamonds. (Okay...maybe I was THINKING it but I wasn't BUYING it.)

Instead, I was interested in what I'd call Israeli "Art Jewelry"...by some new young designers who work with colored beads and stones.

Designers who come to mind are Ayala Bar, Michal Negrin, Laly, and Adaya...to name a few.

Just in time for my trip, the April 2006 edition of Hadassah Magazine had a very wonderful article about many of these jewelry designers. You can find this article online if you are interested.

I would say that I found the selection better in Jerusalem than in Tel Aviv. Of course, I didn't do a scientific, all-inclusive survey. But this was my own personal opinion. I found some stores in Neve Tzedek and on Sheinkin Street selling this type of jewelry. But the best selection was..in my opinion...on Ben Yehuda Street and the Jaffa Road area near Ben Yehuda Street in Jerusalem.

There is one jewelry store after another. My advice would be DON'T buy anything until you have shopped around extensively. You'll think you see something that is EXACTLY what you want. And then you'll go to the next store and see something you like better at half the price.

And there can be a big difference in price for the same article from store to store.

And sometimes, if you stand there looking at something long enough, there is suddenly a 50% off sale that was previously unannounced.

My cousin saw a beautiful glass mezuzah in one store and she bought it. In the store right next door it was HALF the price.

I saw a LALY brooch at a store in the Cardo in the Old Jewish Quarter. On Ben Yehuda Street it was half the price.

If you know of a designer you like, you can "google" the name and find websites where the jewelry is sold online...sometimes with free delivery.

This way you can get an idea of the styles and prices.

For my tchochke, I bought that pair of stained glass candlesticks from Chaim Peretz.

If you are interested in Ahava products...this is what I found out:

At the stores in the cities, the deal was "Buy 2, Get 2 Free". And you could "mix and match".

At the airport duty-free shop, it was "Buy 3 get one Free." and you could also "mix and match".

But here's the catch: The bath gel that was priced at about $11.00 each (49 shekels)in the cities was priced at $6.90 at the duty-free store at the airport.

So...in the city...you'd have to spend about $22 to end up with 4 items. And at the airport you'd have to spend about $20.70 to end up with the same four items.

So...YOU do the math and see which way it comes out better for you. Are the selections the same? I don't know.

If you are looking for fine jewelry, gold, diamonds, or silver Judaica...they had some really nice stores just down the block from the King David Hotel on King David Street.

Happy Hunting.

A note about Israeli wines:

We had the opportunity to try several different wines which we found very pleasant and very drinkable...not at all like what I think of as "seder wine."

My husband commented that he would email the Wine Critic at our local newspaper and recommend that he do some tastings with Israeli wine.

Well, it must have been mental telepathy because in this morning's paper the wine column was all about wines from the Galilee.

And I was also delighted to see for the first time that my supermarket was selling Israeli wine this week. They sell wines from Europe, Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa. And was so happy to see the Israeli wine, I bought a couple of bottles in a show of support.

I hope this is evidence of a new marketing strategy by the Israel Wine Industry.

CORRECTION: I must correct the location of Raphael Restaurant. I'm not exactly sure which hotel it is located in, but the address is 87 Hayarkon St. in Tel Aviv.

You can read about it also at: http://starchefs.com/features/travel/israel/html/index.shtml

CHANGING MONEY:

I've put off writing about this because it meant that I would have to comb through my bank statement....and I was afraid. I'll explain.

On foreign trips I've always used my ATM card to get spending cash at the best exchange rates. I've always gotten a receipt at the ATM machine with which I could do some record-keeping...keep track of my withdrawals, record the ATM fees (if any), and calculate at what rate my money was being exchanged.

To my distress, the ATM machines that I used in Israel did NOT print out any receipts....at least not when the transaction was done in English at a Bank Leumi ATM machine.

With no receipt, this meant I had no idea what fees were being charged for each withdrawal and I had no idea what amount of money was being taken out of my bank account. This aggravated me. I had no idea if I was getting ripped off.

The first time this happened...where I didn't get any receipt...I assumed the machine was broken. But then it happened with ALL the ATM's I used.

As soon as I got home I went to my bank for a printed statement. But I let it sit on my desk for 10 days. I was afraid to look and find out if it was really bad news.

However...I have good news and bad news.

The bad news is that I was charged...in my opinion...exorbitant fees to use the ATM. I have yet to figure out if it was my bank at home, Bank Leumi, or both. (That will take a phone call requiring me to be on "hold" for about 45 minutes.) I have never paid more than $5 for any ATM transaction in any amount in any country. However, some of the transaction fees I was charged in Israel were $7.25 to withdraw 1000 SHEKELS.

But the good news is that I got a really good exchange rate. I calculate it at about 4.4 shekels per dollar...which was just about the "official" rate at the time. Even subtracting the fees, it brought the exchange down only a fraction to 4.3.

In comparison, my cousin was exchanging CASH...US Dollars....at the "Change Places" which are all over and advertise "no commission". He was getting ONLY 3.7 shekels per dollar.

So, if you worry about such things, I would recommmend you keep your own written records of ATM transactions.

I don't know if this receipt situation is only with Bank Leumi ATM's and maybe only if you do that transaction in English.

I used only Bank Leumi ATM's. They were the easiest for me to find. And I always try to use a machine that is actually in front of the bank...rather than just a free-standing ATM. This way, if there is a problem with the machine, you can go into the bank and maybe find someone to help you. At one of the machines I went to, the unfortunate tourist ahead of me had her card "eaten" by the machine. But she was able to go inside the bank and get help. (This is why my husband and I each carry separate ATM cards.)

On my first day in Israel at my first Bank Leumi, I was faced with a row of ATM machines....not knowing what to do because I had read that some people had trouble using them with a card from the US.

A very helpful Israeli read my mind and showed me which was the machine that would take international ATM cards. It is marked in English...but maybe it should be in larger print.

Other ATM machines are clearly marked "for deposits only...no withdrawals."

And when you put your card into the slot, you will get to choose the language with ONE CATCH.... When you go to push the button for ENTER....all the buttons on the keypad are in HEBREW. Nothing says "enter" in English. At the risk of making a mistake and wiping out my whole bank account, I took a chance and pushed the button with the GREEN writing (as opposed to the buttons in black or red).

It was a good choice. The money came out of the machine and I even got my card back.

I figured out the fees:

For each ATM transaction, there was a flat "ATM transaction" charge of $5 from my bank. (In the US I don't pay any fees. But if I use a bank in a foreign country that is not a member of the "global alliance of banks" I get charged $5 per transaction...whatever the amount of the withdrawal.)

THEN...there was an additional fee from my bank of 1% of the amount of the withdrawal as a "foreign exchange fee". This is something NEW to my bank.

I am familiar with the practice that credit cards are charging between 1% and 3% exchange fee when you buy something in a foreign currency.

But now, some banks are also doing this with ATM transactions.

To avoid surprises, the best thing to do is to call your bank and see what their policy is. But as I said, I think I still got a very good rate, even with all of the fees.

ABOUT PHONES:

I just want to add one more thing about phones because I know a lot of people have questions.

First you have to evaluate YOUR OWN needs and what will work best for YOU and which method will save YOU the most money.

I think the first question would be how do you plan to use the phone. Will you be making a lot of calls? Or just using it for emergencies?

After you have answered this question, you can evaluate the different options and see which way saves you the most amount of money and is most convenient.

I planned on using my phone mostly in emergencies. In the past I've rented phones for foreign travel. But now my regular US cell phone is a Nokia GSM tri-band so it worked on the frequency used in Israel.

My service provider, Cingular, has an arrangement with 2 Israeli phone companies....Cellcom and Orange. So, I was able to keep my regular phone and our children could reach us anytime for any long distance whining by using MY REGULAR PHONE NUMBER. In return, I could use my phone for any emergency long distance nagging.

The calls on my own cellphone through Cingular WERE expensive....$1.99 per minute on the Cingular World Traveller Plan. But if it seemed like it was going to be a long call, we also bought a PHONE CARD...and we would hang up the cellphone and call back on a much cheaper phone card using the hotel phone or a public phone.

I had very good reception with my Nokia and Cingular service. Calls from Jerusalem to Florida were very clear and sounded like it was right next door. The only problem I had was retrieving my voice mail messages. So I called the Cingular World Helpline and they were able to "talk me through" some adjustments on my phone so that I was able to play my voice mail messages.

Talk about MIRACLES!!!!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

That's all for now, though she probably will write more later, so watch this space!